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Samsung Syncmaster 206 BW 206BW Monitor- LED flashing but wont start up. |
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| If your monitor just blinks at you and fails to start up properly this document may help you | ||||||
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This info is primarily for the Samsung Syncmaster 206BW LCD Monitor, although the some info in the "How to" section may relate to other Samsung monitors. I decided to trace the fault and write this "How to" as I could not find this info anywhere on the net. All the info in this page is copyright to me as I spent time working it out, so do not put this info on other websites without asking me first Warning: Only attempt this if you are competent to do so! There are lethal voltages inside the monitor even when its unplugged. I'm not liable if you damage yourself or your monitor trying this repair. If your not sure, pay someone else to do it for you. |
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How To: |
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Important note: this monitor can display very similar symptoms if the signal lead is loose/disconnected or if the graphics card has died in the PC. If possible test the screen on another computer first to confirm that it is actually the monitor at fault. There are three electrolytic capacitors on the power supply board that have probably blown - C261 (1000uf 25v) C263 (1000uf 25v) and C265 (470uf 25v). All three caps should be tested/replaced. This should solve the problem. This is a reasonably easy repair if you are competent with a soldering iron, However, some of the joints are very small and there are some very small surface mount components on the board, so be careful with your soldering iron and sucker as not to "shot gun" the board. |
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Update
1: I'm
getting a lot of feedback about this page and it appears that in all cases
the 470uf capacitor (C265) is not blown or damaged at all, where as the
two 1000uf caps are definately blown and the capacitors are nearly always
bulging. It seems that replacing C265 (470uf) is not critical to this
repair.
Update 2: I have recieved an e-mail from Mike in Canada who reports that his power supply was a different version than the one in the monitor that I fixed. The problem is the same, but the component locations are different. C261 and C263 are C107 and C108. The 470uf capacitor (C265) is C109 and was a 680uf instead Heres how to do it: Lay the monitor face down on a towel (to protect screen) on your bench with the stand hanging off the edge. Pull off the plastic cover that hides all the connections (you probably took this off already when you unplugged the monitor). remove the three screws that hold the stand to the monitor. slide stand out. next, undo the three screws that are along the bottom of the screen. The cover is clipped on all round the edge. Starting at the bottom carefully and gently prise the back off. (if you feel you need to use a screwdriver to help you get it off, be sure to use a wide bladed one as to minimise damage to the plastic) once the plastic cover is removed, there will be a steel "chassis" inside with a stainless steel cover on the left hand side. this cover just clips in. gently ease the cover off. Next, unplug all the connections you can see. If you do not have a good memory take a photo of all connections with a digital camera, coz if you plug em back in wrong your gonna fry your monitor. (I had intended to write about each connection, but got carried away and put the monitor back together without writing the how to text). Now that all connections are unplugged, you can lift the complete steel "chassis" off the screen. The "chassis" holds the power supply and the main PCB for screen. There are no fixings holding it down. Lift it off carefully, incase you forgot to unplug a connection. (and be extra careful not do drop it on the screen!) Turn the steel "chassis" over to reveal the power supply and main PCB. Undo the screws holding the power supply board in place, unplug all connections and lift out carefully. Take note: the power supply board can contain lethal voltages even when turned off and unplugged. if you are in any doubts get a professional to do it for you. Now locate and replace the three blown caps. The caps are: C261 - 1000uf 25v, C263 - 1000uf 25v and C265 - 470uf 25v. Be sure to get caps rated at or above 105 degrees when you replace them, and always replace all three together even if one or two test ok. Thats it...now just put it all back together (just reverse how you took it apart) and your done! The whole job cost less than a fiver and your monitor should now be as good as new. Good Luck! -Norm. |
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Feedback: |
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| Here are some recent e-mails that I have recieved from people who have tried this fix | ||||||
| (some names have been starred out to protect against identity fraud) | ||||||
| Hi Norm Just a quick note to say many thanks indeed for your help - I am typing this reply using a repaired Samsung monitor!!!! Now I have a few spares in case this happens again. Like you say, it is actually a really easy repair once you know what you are doing! Thanks again and all the best Darren |
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| Thanks for the 206bw fix. Two of the caps were swollen. -Mark | ||||||
| Thanks Norm for your detailed repair for this unit, all worked as you described except I have a different rev of ps board, the 1000uF caps are C107,108. Bulged and almost ready to vent. The other one C109 was 680uF and I did not replace since I picked up a 470 before I took it apart, there was no bulging at the top anyway. Thanks Again Mike ******* *********, ************, Canada |
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